Taylor wrote:
> Got Vitamin I? (Ibuprofin)
> You guys must have done the equivalent of running a marathon
> yesterday. 5 or 6 hour session!?
>
We were out least 6 hours. Maybe closer to seven. It was incredible.
I’m pretty beat today. Typing is hard.
To sum up:
Saturday I joined Dennis St. Clair at Bolsa Chica. It was big. Big
and stompy and big. Did I mention big? I hate guessing wave heights,
but it was well, well overhead on the standup surfers. When I got out,
there were only a dozen or so guys out. 3-4 times as many standing on
the beach, watching. There were some incredible rides to be had, and
some punishing beat downs if you picked the wrong wave. Enough fun
waves to make it worthwhile. Good times. I had errands to do with Kim,
so it wasn’t a long session, but I didn’t want to get out of the
water. I did take one really bad hit/wipe out, and that made me a
little cautious about the waves I took.
Sunday morning I made the long drive to meet Chris at C-Street in
Ventura. I was out of bed at 4, on the road by 4:30. Kim’s family
thinks I’m crazy. They may be right. Launching was tough, I broke a fin
and dinged my boat getting washed back on the rocks. (High tide). We
were both getting some fun rides, but it crowded fast. The waves were
incredible, but I was nervous taking off with people everywhere. We
paddled north and surfed uncrowded waves. They were not crowded for a
reason! Drop in, scream across a face, and bail out before the brutal
closeout. At least, that’s what I did. Chris was surfing deeper,
staying on the wave longer, and instead of bailing out, throwing air
moves at the end. I hope when I’m old I can surf like Chris does.
We were out there for 3.5 hours or so, and I was starting to sink. I
wasn’t catching a ton of rides, due to fear and crowds. Chris was still
getting a bunch. I paddled in, and inspected the damage. Chris came
in, and we decided to find a surf shop. I bought some UV resin, Chris
got coffee, and we patch my boats. Then drove north, looking at some
crowded spots and then settling on paddling out near Emma woods state
park, and out to the Overheads spot.
WOW. Wow. wow. I’d never surfed there before. loved it. loved it.
loved it. Simply awesome. Steep drops, shoulders and walls, and
L-O-N-G rides. I was think I may have covered more distance in that
session that any other surf session ever. Simply, simply awesome. I
like that spot a lot. Simply fun. Taylor showed up, and joined us and
just a handful of board surfers for many, many,many rides. Chris headed
in, and I tried to stick it out, but eventually I was just whipped.
It was a long drive home, and I get home to find out I’m needed to help
move. Heavy things. DOH.
Super fun day.
